No hot water at any tap in the house
A complete loss of hot water is the most obvious sign of a system failure. For electric systems, a tripped circuit breaker or burnt-out element is a common culprit. For gas units, the pilot light may have gone out, the thermocouple may have failed, or the gas valve may not be opening. Check your switchboard or pilot light first - if neither resolves it, the system needs professional diagnosis.
Water is lukewarm but never properly hot
If water reaches a tepid temperature but won’t get hot, the issue could be a failing thermostat, a partially burnt-out element (in twin-element systems), or sediment buildup insulating the bottom of the tank from the heat source. In gas systems, a partially blocked burner or flue can reduce heating capacity to the point where the water never reaches set temperature.
Hot water runs out much faster than usual
If showers that used to last 10 minutes now run cold after three, the tank may have significant sediment buildup reducing its effective capacity, one of two elements may have failed (in electric systems), or the dip tube may be broken - allowing cold inlet water to mix with the hot water at the top of the tank instead of being directed to the bottom.
Discoloured or rusty hot water
Brown, orange, or rust-coloured water coming only from hot taps (not cold) indicates corrosion inside the storage tank or in the hot water pipework. In storage tanks, this often means the sacrificial anode has been fully consumed and the tank itself is corroding. Left unchecked, the tank will eventually develop a leak and need replacement.
Leaking or pooling water around the unit
Water pooling beneath a hot water system can come from the temperature-pressure relief (TPR) valve discharging (which may indicate excessive pressure or a faulty valve), a leaking tank due to internal corrosion, or failed pipe connections. Any visible leak warrants prompt attention - a corroded tank can fail catastrophically, releasing hundreds of litres.